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Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:59 pm PostPost subject:
Harvey
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Even though some of know how to get off the grid, we don't. It attracts too much attention and some of us like to do our research quietly. Joule for Joule, Gasoline, Grid Electricity, Natural Gas and Coal are cheap sources of power. All of them represent huge economical underpinning and US jobs. To create an energy supply glut right now would be counterproductive to the US economy even though we would think that all those people would have more money to spend because their energy expense would drop radically. Wouldn't that give much more in dispensable funds to be spent elsewhere? Yes, but the effect of initiating such a paradigm shift as instant 'free' energy would drive already poor markets into deeper, recessive, possibly unrecoverable holes. The energy shift must occur gradually and it must be controlled. And that is why there are 'army's' out there ensuring that any real threat to that gradual shift is quickly labeled as quackery, nonfunctional or dangerous. Recall Edison's public displays against AC?

Now regarding the BEMF issue. Power is that portion of voltage and current which has been applied to due work. You ever wonder why transformers are not rated in watts? Because they do not consume power (or at least they shouldn't). Instead they convert it. But if you place a diode across the input or output terminals, you will soon have no diode. Because it will appear as a dead short to the supply source. If we place a capacitor across the output terminals, and it is resonant with the output winding, then when we remove the imput power the transformer will be charged and voltage will be present, ringing back and forth until it is either applied to a load, given back to the source or dissipates in the resistive materials of the transformer. The energy we use to charge the transformer is called 'apparent' power. It has not been applied to do work and it is available for use later. Similarly, when we charge a battery, we are only moving energy from one place to another - putting it in a place that we can use later. So technically, an efficient battery charger does no work as the apparent power is applied to charging it. When we take a coil, like that of your buzzer, and we put a diode across the leads, we create a condition that forces the apparent power stored in the coil to be dissipated in the coil itself and the diode. When the coil is charged, it becomes a power source. When the diode shorts out that source, current flows out of the coil, through the diode and back into the coil, this continues until all of that current is again stored as a field, the current stops flowing, the field collapses and the cycle repeats. This is called freewheeling. If there was no resistance in the circuit, it would freewheel indefinitely.

If however, two diodes were joined at their cathodes at the B(+) terminal and each anode were to go to separate ends of the coil - then a switch placed across one of the diodes - then another switch placed from the anode of the other diode to (B-) - and then a means to ensure that both switches open simultaneously - you would now have a circuit that would place all of the back EMF available less the PN junction drop back into the battery after the switches were opened. Did you note the word 'available'? If we used that coil to do work, the EMF would actually be reduced by the amount of work done - in theory. So the amount 'available' to put back would be the total minus that given to do work - in theory. In reality, sometimes a portion of the current is traded for EMF and we get more EMF back than what we put in - or vice versa. Losses tend to go down as current goes down. High frequency, high voltage inductors tend to have much less loss than their lower frequency lower voltage counterparts. But it is not EMF that charges a battery. It is 'apparent' power. It needs both, EMF and current. And it is the combination of the two that never seems to come back higher than it left. Except for one patented device. Tesla's magnifying transmitter. The claim was made that it would produce both and increase in voltage and current on its outputs. And the thoughts there are that it grabbed energy from the Schumann Cavity.

But there is also the matter of the nonconservative field. The nonconservative field is one that energy can be extracted from at no cost. Both Lenz and Faraday gave us equations for working with nonconservative electromagnetic fields. Kirchhoff on the other hand would not allow nonconservative fields in his math. Our world is 99% engineered around Kirchhoff's Voltage and Current Laws - and they only tell part of the story. When a magnetic or electric field is in a state of change, it is no longer confined to Kirchhoff's Laws. Those laws only apply when the fields are static or dynamically cyclic. Kirchhoff's current law fails during the isolated ringdown of a coil because the current diminishes with each cycle until all the power is dissipated in the device itself and the paths have not changed. So, Kirchhoff's laws are a special case of Faraday's law, and Faraday's Law always holds because it provides a means for the path and handles nonconservative fields.

Suppose we changed our equipment so that instead of measuring a voltage drop from the line hot to line neutral we measured a current drop. In other words, suppose we change our equipment to spend the current instead of the voltage? A voltage regulator does just that. It alters the current to a load in order to keep the voltage to the load the same. What would the world be like if we ran our grids this way?

Cool
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Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:14 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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progress report...

Have decided to go with, and purchased, a spool for the magnet wire coil. [It's a fishing line spool. Hang in there Mylow! Don't throw away all that fishing line just yet!!] The spool is 3/4" wide, inner cylinder is 3-1/2" diameter.
Am waiting on my order of AWG 29 [.0112 thick/dia.] magnet wire to arrive, maybe this Monday. ZEROPOINT132's description of his reed switch orientation led me to test mine 'vertically'. ZP's vertical orientation seems to work well with one of my Allied Electronics Stk# 808-0004 reed switches. The smaller #808-0001 switches I've ordered have been shipped, waiting for them to arrive. My stuff looks like this at the moment.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB21.jpg
I plan on routing all the wires [primary coil, secondary coil, reed switch] to the breadboard so to make it easy to play around with the circuit.

All for now..Axle
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Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:44 pm PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Nice setup Axle. Im using the same breadboard.
My rotor setup is not going to be the same beast as the sphere. I tried to make a small rotor, 2in with n52 disks stacked on top to simulate the sphere, but it causes the bearing to magnetize and slow like a whip stator. The large rotor is 7in with 4 3/4x3/8 n52. Using a large dia coil either is very weak at producing motion with a large no of wraps, or sucks up too much current with a small no of wraps.
Im finding that the coils air core having the same dia as the mag is working best, for a rotor anyway.
I wil show vid of it later today.
I had made a lot of different coil variations yesterday, just to get a feel for what is needed to get it rollin. Resistance of the coil seems to play a big part aside of the no. of wraps and its dimensions. Above 20 ohms there is very little current drain and a weak field, below 10 ohms, an immediate drop on the battery of a .1-.2v when on, and a much stronger field.
With the sphere there is a much better chance to get it to torque around from a coil pulse than a rotor. But its my decision to apply it this way.
From what I see, there is going to be a particular balance of coil dimensions vs current drawn to get things rollin in hopes of not taking too much from the battery in order to be able to replace what was taken. I tried various diodes to lower the voltage drop, cuz it is an immediate loss of sorts. About .4v drop is the best I have to work with. I think it is a 1n4001. Ill check to make sure. I tried a 600v piv 1n4005 but the drop is 1.4v. too much
I also have some fast switching diodes I have to dig up from some car amplifier power supplies that I want to try.
Using less than 5ohm coils will cause the reed to heat up and cause damage to it. One of mine turned blue at the terminals and doesnt react the way it did at first.
I had gotten some from radioshack, from reed relays. They didnt have them separately. But the reed is easily removable. >5 amp rating.
I have more stuff to say but it will have to be later.

Mags
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Thu Sep 10, 2009 1:15 pm PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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oops thats .5 amp rating on the reed that came from the reed relay from RS
mags
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:19 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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progress report....

Have NOW decided to attempt to replicate ZP's 'initial set-up' instead of his 'Air coil' design. I've upgraded my test stand assemblies. [lots on time on my hands while waiting for the magnet wire to arrive] Still more to do here.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB24.jpg
Lots of 3/16" thick Plexiglass, no more wooden 'parts'.
The spool of magnet wire in the photo is about 2,200 feet of
"AWG 29 Copper Magnet Wire HPN 155 RED".
Am waiting on a spool of AWG 42 to arrive, maybe Friday.
Then it will be time to 'rig up' something, in order to wind a ~4000 turn, parallel-wound, bifilar coil.

All for now...Axle
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:29 pm PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Hey Axle
Looks very nice
I wound a small version of the bifi coil, using 30awg on a 1.5in long spool, 3/8 air core. There was 200 ft of 30awg on 2 spools and I just turned it all on. I used a drill to hold the bifi spool and the 2 source spools work well together but add a bit of tension to avoid unspooling. Mine turned out very nice.
I estimate aprox 500 turns each in parallel.
You may go the crank style winding to perfect it. It will take a bit of time. keep a bit of masking tape, precut, so if you need to take a break, it helps to hold things together.
Im still studying up on what advantages we want to make of it though.

Im trying some different configs with it on my old whip rotor having the diametric disks(Cool alternate out. I use another coil reed setup to keep the rotor going, while I fiddle with the bifi elsewhere on the rotor. If it works, the rotor should show an increase in rpm rather than a drag on the rotor as I introduce the bifi setup. It beats the spin and guess game.
Ill do a vid later of what I have setup so far a bit later.

Mags
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Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:50 pm PostPost subject:
Harvey
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How about an old sewing machine motor and pedal for winding control?
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:00 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Winding rig completed.

I started on the ~4000 turn, parallel-wound, bifilar coil wind using
"AWG 29 Copper Magnet Wire HPN 155 RED" and
"AWG 42 HEAVY FORMVAR Copper Magnet Wire".
The AWG 42 is VERY THIN and I need to be really careful with it.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB43.jpg

After 1000 turns...
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB46.jpg

My bifilar coil winder rig was based somewhat on this..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcZPAHoWsZE&feature=related
and this..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5bMxCBYA9s

I 'off set' the point where the two wires come together in order to minimize the stress [trying to keep a relatively straight path] on the VERY THIN AWG 42 wire.

Working on it... Axle
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:28 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Very sweet Axle.
I saw the same vids and it seems to be the best way to keep control, but the time should be worth it. Cant wait to see the end product.
Nice work dude.
Mags
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:26 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Thanks for the good words Mags!,

The coil winding went REAL SMOOTH!!
4,060 turns. I took a break after every 150 or so turns.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB4000.jpg
An occasional bit of liquid dish soap on my left index finger and thumb helped out,
and a few squirts of water, once in awhile, [as a lube] on the wood dowels and such where the wires meet up.
[I was really worried about possibly breaking the AWG 42 (0.0025" dia.) thin wire]
I mixed up a small amount of 'Loctite 5-minute epoxy' and dabbed it on the end of the coil windings, to keep it from unwinding.

So far so good!!! Very Happy
------------------------------------------------------
I've been concerned all along about the physical size of the coil in ZP's 'initial vid' given ZP's [or someone's] description: "Bifilar coil. Primary coil 4000 turns of 46swg. Secondary coil 4000 turns of 30swg magnet wire."
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MAGBALL02.jpg

The magnet wire I'm winding onto this coil is different from ZP's..

ZP coil..
30swg = .0124"
46swg = .0024"

Axle coil..
AWG29 = .0112"
AWG42 = .0025"

The larger diameter wire, of the two parallel wound wires, plays the 'major role' in the final diameter of the coil. ZP's secondary coil wire is larger in dia. [.0124"] than mine [.0112"]

OK..Bottom Line..
ZP coil vs. Axle coil
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/ZPAXCC.jpg

I am convinced that ZP's initial coil is 'as advertised'.
"Bifilar coil. Primary coil 4000 turns of 46swg. Secondary coil 4000 turns of 30swg magnet wire."

All for now..Axle
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:06 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Looks awesome Ax.
What are you using for the iron core? It looks large. I believe Z used some length of finishing nails.
Your right on the coils size difference, its close.
The wire size will make a difference but your close for sure.
The circuit seems straight forward. What cap are you using?

Also, check out Mags oven, I copied some tesla stuff from another forum and it is like a debate with tesla. It is very interesting and some of it relates to what you are accomplishing. It decribes condensers(caps) and inductors. I only read part of it and it fits here.
Mags
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 7:21 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Thanks Mags,

[It's getting late for me tonight..I need to turn in soon]
The inside of my spool is 'hollow' to allow for most any kind of core. I now have what I think is 'mild steel', can change that to whatever. Was thinking of buying a BIG OLD SPIKE NAIL and cutting it down to size. Any and all suggestions are most welcome!!!! I have not even thought much about the circuit yet. You are Light Years ahead of me on that. Tomarrow, I want to 'secure' this coil in a way that I can play around with it and not need to worry about messing with the 'hair thin' wires.

I'm turning in. [3:20 am] Until tomarrow. Axle
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 6:38 pm PostPost subject:
bano
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Axle wrote:
Thanks for the good words Mags!,

The coil winding went REAL SMOOTH!!
4,060 turns. I took a break after every 150 or so turns.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB4000.jpg
An occasional bit of liquid dish soap on my left index finger and thumb helped out,
and a few squirts of water, once in awhile, [as a lube] on the wood dowels and such where the wires meet up.
[I was really worried about possibly breaking the AWG 42 (0.0025" dia.) thin wire]
I mixed up a small amount of 'Loctite 5-minute epoxy' and dabbed it on the end of the coil windings, to keep it from unwinding.

So far so good!!! Very Happy
------------------------------------------------------
I've been concerned all along about the physical size of the coil in ZP's 'initial vid' given ZP's [or someone's] description: "Bifilar coil. Primary coil 4000 turns of 46swg. Secondary coil 4000 turns of 30swg magnet wire."
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MAGBALL02.jpg

The magnet wire I'm winding onto this coil is different from ZP's..

ZP coil..
30swg = .0124"
46swg = .0024"

Axle coil..
AWG29 = .0112"
AWG42 = .0025"

The larger diameter wire, of the two parallel wound wires, plays the 'major role' in the final diameter of the coil. ZP's secondary coil wire is larger in dia. [.0124"] than mine [.0112"]

OK..Bottom Line..
ZP coil vs. Axle coil
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/ZPAXCC.jpg

I am convinced that ZP's initial coil is 'as advertised'.
"Bifilar coil. Primary coil 4000 turns of 46swg. Secondary coil 4000 turns of 30swg magnet wire."

All for now..Axle


I saw the pictures from You Greath jobs Axle
LoL:)))))))))))))))))))))))
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 12:59 am PostPost subject:
Frank
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http://www.youtube.com/user/OrrOTube#play/all/1/dVgCdnDUQrw

This looks to be the same thing. Is it?
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:47 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Hi Frank

The answer to your question is... NOPE!!

If you are trying to confuse me, don't bother. I'm confused enough already.
I may be able to wind a neat coil, but still have much to learn.
For instance the difference between 'mild steel' and 'soft iron'...DOH!!

Working on it...Axle
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 2:54 am PostPost subject:
Frank
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Sorry Axle. I didn't mean to confuse you. I'll try not to raise any more red herrings. Embarassed
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:54 am PostPost subject:
Harvey
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Hey Frank, is that 'Gone...Or...' Mr. Green

Axel,
I've hear everyday garden wire is a a good source of soft iron...I think. A bundle of that perhpas?

Cool
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:22 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Hi Harvey!

Quote:

I've heard everyday garden wire is a a good source of soft iron...I think. A bundle of that perhaps?

Well...look at what I bought today after doing a bit of research, and taking into GREAT consideration Magluvin's use of 'twisty-tie wire' in his last video.

Garden Wire!!!!!!!!!

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB67.jpg
Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

You sure are 'on top of things' Harvey!!! Thanks!!!

More to post in a short while!!

Axle
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:52 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Good to go Axle. Maybe later try ferrite beads. Im sure they come cheap and many sizes.
Picked up this tidbit from a tesla pat.

14. Nikola Tesla, U.S. Patent #512,340, "Coil for Electro-Magnets," reprinted in LPA, pp. P-428-
429. He explains that a standard coil of 1000 turns with a potential of 100 volts across it will have a
difference of .1 volt between turns. A similar bifilar coil will have a potential of 50 volts between
turns. In that the stored energy is a function of the square of the voltages the energy in the bifilar
will be 502/.12 = 2500/.01 = 250,000 times greater than the standard coil.


I see what he is saying about the difference in potential between the 2 coils individual layers.
If it is just a normal coil, the voltage potential between one loop and the next is .1v.
But when there are 2, bifilar, current flows through the first coil, from the inner windings toward the outer windings, then the end of the first coil is entered into the second coil, and so on. The 2 coils have a resistance, so 100v / 2 = 50v across each coil, so now the individual coil windings are all surrounded by 50v potential, instead of just a .1v potential.

That is awesome! I have to try some tests to see what is what wit my bifi, holmes. Mr. Green
But I will find what it is that we need to know, so we all understand how this thing works.

mags
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:57 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Axle Update...

I managed to CAREFULLY strip the insulation off of the coil wires
[with wet steel wool] and then connect the 4 wires to the 'posts' on the base.
[The spool is now secured/glued onto the base with epoxy]
Working with the AWG42 [.0025" dia.] wire is VERY tricky! That wire is SO fine.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB62.jpg

Did a continuity/resistance check on the two coils.

The primary coil [thin wire] reads 1.8k ohms.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB60.jpg

The secondary coil reads 89.2 ohms.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB61.jpg

I also checked the continuity between the two coils:
reading=infinite ohms!!

Very Happy Evidently the 4,060 turn coil wind was a success! Very Happy

More to post in a short while....

Axle


Last edited by Axle on Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:40 am; edited 5 times in total
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:22 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Magluvin,

Awesome work!! Keep it up!! Believe me, I am following what you are posting.

One more thing tonight before I 'turn in' for the night.
It is so neat that Harvey suggested using a 'bundle of garden wire' as a possible soft iron core. I say that because I spent a couple hours doing exactly that...

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB65.jpg
My 'mild steel' core, and a bundle of 'soft iron' wire, with a 'handle', all epoxyed together.

All for me tonight...Great Stuff...Axle
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:04 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Very nice Ax
Also make a couple that fit good, that have fewer iron wires. Like use half of what you have now in one and a 1/4 in the other. It will be good for variability. Plus a large iron core tends to magnetically attract the mag and that attraction could be stronger than what you get from the coil. In all of my coils, adding an iron core slows the rotor and too much will even stop it. There is going to be a happy medium for this. Z's had just some nails inside, loose. One of the vids shows him open the cap and you see nails.
So make a couple with less for that variability.
Mags
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:30 am PostPost subject:
Harvey
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Of course just pulling the core out away from the coil will have nearly the same effect as reducing the material with the added advantage of increasing the distance from the magnet. The inductance is varied by the insertion of the core, and this can be used to tune the rotation frequency.

Great Work Guys!

Cool
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:35 pm PostPost subject:
Frank
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Harvey wrote:
Of course just pulling the core out away from the coil will have nearly the same effect as reducing the material with the added advantage of increasing the distance from the magnet. The inductance is varied by the insertion of the core, and this can be used to tune the rotation frequency.

Great Work Guys!

Cool


Did you mean "Lasciate ogni speranza, voi ch'entrate"? Wink
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 5:22 am PostPost subject:
Axle
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Re: Soft Iron core

Mags
Quote:

make a couple that fit good, that have fewer iron wires
Harvey
Quote:

pulling the core out away from the coil...this can be used to tune the rotation frequency.

I intend to do both.
Make a smaller core
[The first one I made is too big in dia. to fit inside the spool. Rolling Eyes ],
and also allow for it to be adjustable, in-and-out.
I won't have much time to work on things until Sunday afternoon.
Thanks Mags, Thanks Harvey.

All for now..Axle

Hi Frank


Last edited by Axle on Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:20 am PostPost subject:
Frank
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Good luck Axle. I'm following your progress with interest. Smile

It must be fun to be practical. Fortunately I know my limitations. I stick to pen and paper, albeit the electronic variety.
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Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:16 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Hey Axle
Here is a very cool way to get consistent coils wound. This guy makes some very nice setups.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zd3bftQ4hHk

Mags
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Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:37 pm PostPost subject:
Axle
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Hi All,

Have been playing around with it.
I did not start this project with the idea of 'debunking' ZP's initial video, but am really starting to think that a battery is hidden inside ZP's coil spool.
There is no way to verify 'exactly' what is inside his spool.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB88.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB64.jpg
'soft iron nails?'..or.. possibly.. 'a hidden battery'?

The only way [so far] I've been able to replicate what is shown in the initial vid..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rySqz7Hgpkk

..is to power the coil with a battery. I find that a 1.5 volt AAA size battery will do.
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/?action=view&current=MBV01.flv

An AAA battery could easily fit inside the 'air core' of the spool.

All for now...Axle
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Tue Sep 29, 2009 3:28 am PostPost subject:
Harvey
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Joined: 16 Jan 2008
Posts: 1927

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Axle wrote:
Hi All,

Have been playing around with it.
I did not start this project with the idea of 'debunking' ZP's initial video, but am really starting to think that a battery is hidden inside ZP's coil spool.
There is no way to verify 'exactly' what is inside his spool.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB88.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/MB64.jpg
'soft iron nails?'..or.. possibly.. 'a hidden battery'?

The only way [so far] I've been able to replicate what is shown in the initial vid..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rySqz7Hgpkk

..is to power the coil with a battery. I find that a 1.5 volt AAA size battery will do.
http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x165/Axle001/?action=view&current=MBV01.flv

An AAA battery could easily fit inside the 'air core' of the spool.

All for now...Axle


I asked him if it had a battery - he said no, it did not. And then he said he thinks he has another arrangement that also does not need a battery, but he is trying to get the energy in the capacitor to last a few pulses before it is fully discharged. I haven't had the time to really focus on it as much as I would like to. It seems the bifilar coil is important.

Cool
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Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:00 am PostPost subject:
Magluvin
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Joined: 25 Nov 2008
Posts: 499
Location: USA

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Hey Ax
Does the led light up at all?
The way I see what is happening is just like my experiments, of which I had gotten a better understanding of certain things that I couldnt grasp at first with Z's first setup, is the reed needs to be to the outer edge of being activated by the sphere. The one thing that got me confused about it before was the diode.
If the 2 coils have an individual purpose during a cycle, due to the diode, then the reed should probably only fire to the pass of just one pole of the sphere during one complete cycle. And my experimentation proved that the reed can fire on just one pole during a spin cycle at the outer edge of the spheres activating reach. So 1 down for curing some of my doubts.
The coils, as to which one is which, is also a bit of a mystery. That will have to be tried and error, along with which ends are actually tied together.
My go at it would be that the 2 coils work together to collect the charge and one absorbs it to push the sphere. It could be the other way around, but thats my go.As to which one is which, trial and error.

I dont see the circuit as a, when the reed fires, the cap dumps into the coil to make the sphere turn, I see it as the experiment I did on YT of the passive coil being reed switched as the magnet passes the coil, thereby inducing a bemf of 91v into the cap, and when it peaks, that voltage instantly dumps that charge back through the coils producing a field that kicks the sphere a bit, because the spheres angle at that time should be good to accept the push, then the cycle repeats.

The circuit is a bit deceiving as to where the reed is in relation to the coil.
According to the diagram, the reed is 90 deg in relation to the sphere compared to the coil. But shorting out the charged cap alone, with maybe 1v that the cap received by a charge from a magnet pass, would do nothing but waist the charge.

So I tend to go with Z's position of the reed, as it pulses just as the spheres pole passes the coil.
A scope would be the best way to see what is happening. The led should get very bright when the reed is firing on only one pole of the sphere, as in my vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rR7P-JSF6i4
and there is another that shows the same thing, I cant find it. YT is acting funny. With the large turn coil like you have, that voltage could be hundreds of volts


Another thing that would be of help is to make a separate driver setup to get the sphere really moving, then play with the coil, im sure hand spinning gets tiring.

I wouldnt give out yet.

Good luck Axle.
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I always think of it like an electric motor, ya gota have pole switching.
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